I have been to the Phi Phi islands before but I haven’t seen any of the things I have seen this time, for instance, Phi Phi beaches. On my first time in Phi Phi island, I didn’t explore much of Koh Phi Phi Don, the island where are all the accommodations and restaurants. There are two Phi Phi islands: Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh where Maya Bay is found and that you can only visit on a day tour. It is not possible to sleep in Koh Phi Phi Leh.
How to get to Phi Phi by ferry HERE!
So, this time my focus was Phi Phi Don, and explore almost all Phi Phi beaches by myself. You can also explore the beaches on the island by boat, but instead, I decided to walk to each and every Phi Phi beach I found interesting. This time I stayed in Phi Phi island for 3 nights and it was enough to explore all the beaches I wanted, always on foot. The island is not that big, so there are no proper streets or cars around. To access many of these beaches walking, you have to cross the jungle which makes the journey fun. I will show you the trails I have done and the Phi Phi beaches I have visited.
Nui beach
For me, this was the most beautiful of Phi Phi beaches I have seen in Phi Phi Don. However, it is far from the center and it took me about 1h30 to get there (from Tonsai) as I was stopping very often for pics and enjoying the wonderful trek to get there. This was the path I followed:
So, before entering the jungle, the path is just next to the water and what a mesmerizing view is this one! This trail is just so beautiful because you have Loh Dalum Beach in sight all the time and its water is dreamy. Even if you don’t go all the way to Nui beach, consider doing the possible trek along the coastline as I promise you won’t regret it. Not sure if because of Covid, but I saw some abandoned bungalows along the way with awesome sea views.
To reach Nui beach 1st I walked along the coastline and on rocks, then I entered a very thick jungle with fallen trees and steep parts, then I left the jungle and walked on a proper street until I reached Lana beach. From Lana beach, I proceeded to Nui beach and the path is only doable during low tide. I went there in the morning, and the latest time to leave Nui beach should be no longer than 12pm otherwise you risk not being able to walk back again cause the rocky path to reach Nui beach will now be flooded. Bring lots of water and good shoes because before reaching Nui bay I had to literally climb a rocky wall that is very steep!!! But totally worth the effort.
When I reached Nui beach it was already kinda late so I didn’t stay for a long time, but I think this might be a great snorkeling spot. Otherwise, Nui Bay can be reached by boat at any time like the other Phi Phi beaches.
Lana Beach
Next, I went my way back to Lana beach where there is a small fishing community and a wide but very empty beach. There were some bungalows nearby, but again, they were abandoned.
The beach is very beautiful too!! But I didn’t stay a long time here, because besides having walked almost 4km, I decided to visit one more beach this day.
Laem Thong
So, from Lana beach, I have walked more than 3 km to reach Laem Thong beach which took me about 45 minutes. I spent the rest of the day here and got back to Ton Sai before the sunset.
This is a very beautiful trail to be done and I totally recommend it. I was not expecting the views to be so pretty so I was very impressed and happy with my walk. On the way, I found Viewpoint of Lo Ba Gao that has an amazing view of Ba Kao bay, one of the most beautiful Phi Phi beaches views! And then all the way to get to Laem Thong beach is next to the ocean so the views are always pleasant. The street is good and there is no one walking there which makes it a very relaxing and pleasant walk.
Laem Thong is the furthest beach from the center of Phi Phi Don. The beach is very beautiful with crystal clear waters and almost no one. Great spot to relax!
From Laem Thong to Ton Sai is quite a walk, more than 5km, so I left the beach early. Also, cause the Phi Phi beaches on this side of the island lose direct sunlight very early, and at about 4 pm, there will be no direct sun and the water colors begin to fade and lose their brightness. Also, walking in the jungle during sunset time is not so pleasant because that is when all the mosquitoes will attack. Gladly I had some mosquito spray with me cause if I stop for 2 seconds I can guarantee I will be attacked by the annoying insects. On this jungle trail, there is a part where I saw a big group of monkeys. These monkeys are always very scary to me cause sometimes they are aggressive, but luckily, this group just hung on the trees and watched me pass by. I didn’t look at them directly and pretended I don’t see them and I’m not scared haha I think it works…
Long beach
The trail to get here is also to die for. The path is along the coastline and the views are always awesome! Totally recommend it and it is not so far from Ton Sai:
To get to Long Beach you will enjoy wonderful views of Ton Sai bay and the path is through some bungalows. Very pleasant. I was also walking past some other smaller beaches on the way.
Long Beach is beautiful and wide with great views of the mountain cliffs on the other side of the bay.
Loh Moo Dee Beach
From Long Beach, I have walked to Loh Moo Dee beach that is not so far, but honestly not worthy. There is absolutely nothing on this beach and it didn’t seem very impressive. But this might probably be the beach where you will feel like you are on a private beach for yourself. However, it is not worth the walk…
Haad Phak Nam
On another day I decided to walk to Haad Phak Nam beach but I chose the wrong path. I walked all the way to the marked viewpoint, but don’t do the same:
I don’t know if because of covid or not, but here everything is abandoned and some construction sites were left frozen in time. There is no viewpoint as there are too many trees and abandoned bungalows that were taken by the monkeys. As I am not a fan of these mammals, I decided to go back as soon as I figured out that there is a huge group living there and taking over the bungalows. On my way here I found a garbage dump very well hidden from tourists’ eyes. Well, I guess they have to dump the trash somewhere…
So I went all the way back to the proper trail to Haad Phak Nam beach. This was the only beach where I have been before but I didn’t remember… It is a beautiful beach with some cool bungalows and an amazing sea view. It is quite a walk, but worth it.
Rantee beach
My mission this time was to see as many beaches as possible so I went to Rantee beach the same day. Bad decision. This was the toughest jungle trek. The path to the beach is so steep and so poorly maintained… I think no one comes here through this trek… So many fallen trees. It is a very difficult trek and disappointing to get down to the beach. There was no access to the beach!! Everything was destroyed/abandoned and cutting the access to the beach itself. I struggled a little to find a possible way to reach the sand through an abandoned bar. The abandoned bungalows still have mattresses inside!! I have no idea if this is covid consequences or what the hell happened there, plus the beach is not that special and there is only one resort and one restaurant probably for those resort costumers. What a bad place to stay on the island I would say…
Plus, there are so many mosquitoes on this trail… If I stopped I would see 20 mosquitoes plugged into my legs. Scary!! I don’t recommend this trail at all.
Last but not least
Ton Sai beach
This is where the main pier is, so this is not the best of Phi Phi beaches to lie down and relax. The beach itself where you can stay and rent some beach beds is on the western side, but the place is so packed that it is not possible to relax there although the views from this side of the island are beautiful. I would rather go to Loh Dalum Beach which is a few meters away.
Loh Dalum Beach
Loh Dalum Beach is way quieter than Ton Sai beach and more pleasant. The views here are also great and this is the best side of the island to stay for sunset. This is where you will find beach bars and some night entertainment like the fire spitters, etc… This beach has many corals and it’s probably a good snorkeling spot. When low tide, the water retreats so much that you need to walk several meters until the water reached your knees.
And finally, besides being there before, I needed to visit Phi Phi Island viewpoint.
Phi Phi viewpoint
This is the most beautiful beach viewpoint I have ever seen, that is for sure, so I didn’t mind looking at that natural landscape again, plus the ticket is only 30 bahts.
When in Phi Phi islands, you can’t miss this viewpoint. There are so many shades of blue and green on the water. Simply amazing. Many people come here for sunset, but to see the water colors at their best you should go before 3/4 pm otherwise the colors will start to faint.
The place was packed for sunset but I didn’t see any amazing one here. The sun sets behind the mountain cliffs.
Other considerations:
Phi Phi islands are filled with cats. There are cats everywhere, even at the beach. I love cats. There are no cars, but a few motorbikes and usually things are transported by hand cart. You can pay a guy to push one with your luggage for you.
You should pay a visit to Garlic 1992 restaurant and have some Khao Soi, a traditional Thai dish that is so yum. During the nighttime, there was always a waiting line to eat here. Great food and good prices.
The island is small and you can walk everywhere. The most agitated part of the island is the eastern part of Ton Sai although because of Covid there wasn’t much going on.
